THIS STORY APPEARED ON ALLURE MARCH 18, 2022 | BY JULIA GUERRA

A few little pricks may have some big skin-care benefits.

A more holistic approach to beauty has become desirable for many since the pandemic began, and this is especially true in terms of skin care. Facial massage therapies such as gua sha, jade rolling, and cupping are all buzzwords in the beauty space as of late, and according to Chinese medicine doctor, Jenelle Kim, DACM, LAc, the ancient Chinese practice of cosmetic acupuncture is among them. 

Here's everything you should know about cosmetic acupuncture, including its history, potential benefits, potential side effects, and cost.

Meet the experts:

• Jenelle Kim, DACM, LAc, a doctor of Chinese medicine.

• Stephanie DiLibero, LAc, LE, a licensed acupuncturist, aesthetician, and founder of New York City acupuncture studio, Gotham Wellness.

• Jenny Liu, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Minneapolis, Minnesota.

• Angela Chau Gray  LAc, a licensed acupuncturist and cofounder of traditional Chinese medicine-inspired wellness brand Yina.

• Rebecca Marcus MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Dallas, Texas.

• Michelle Henry MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City.

What is cosmetic acupuncture?

Cosmetic acupuncture, also referred to as facial acupuncture, is acupuncture that focuses specifically on an aesthetic condition of the patient, usually concerning the face. Like traditional acupuncture, it involves strategically inserting ultra-thin, sterilized needles into different areas of the skin with the aim of stimulating blood flow and balancing the body's Qi (which, when translated, means "vital energy" in Traditional Chinese Medicine). 

Though the complexion is typically the target area for results, the process utilizes acupuncture points around the face and body. While clinical studies that speak to its specific cosmetic benefits may be lacking, it has grown increasingly popular with traditional acupuncture clients, and dermatologists and acupuncturists alike have spoken to its potential positive effects.

"[Cosmetic acupuncture] can enhance the production of collagen via micro-injury to the skin, increase blood flow, stimulate immune responses that reduce inflammation, and activate any number of functional points that have various responses, like reducing jaw tension or relieving anxiety," says licensed acupuncturist and aesthetician Stephanie DiLibero, LAc, LE, founder of New York City acupuncture studio Gotham Wellness. Jenny Liu, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Minneapolis, Minnesota, agrees that cosmetic acupuncture could be helpful in these ways.

What's a cosmetic acupuncture session like? 

At its most basic, an appointment may start with your practitioner asking about your digestion, menstruation, sleep, energy levels, and diet to get a better sense of how your current physical and mental state is affecting your complexion — for example, puffiness, fine lines, and acne, DiLibero explains. 

From there, the acupuncturist will develop a treatment plan, mapping out where on the face and body the needles will be inserted and stay in place until removed. Enhanced treatments may involve LED therapy, a facial, guided meditation, masking, microcurrent, facial cupping, gua sha, and more. It's important to note that if you are looking for hybrid treatments that include LED or a facial, your acupuncturist should also be a licensed aesthetician. 

Who is cosmetic acupuncture for?

"Anyone who wants a functional and holistic approach to health and beauty is a candidate," says DiLibero. Those with Botox or filler should wait at least two weeks after injection before seeking this kind of treatment, and Dr. Liu says this waiting period allows for swelling from procedures to reduce  and Botox to fully kick in. If you're pregnant, check with your doctor before trying cosmetic acupuncture (or acupuncture of any kind, for that matter.)

As for who is not a candidate for cosmetic acupuncture, Jenelle Kim, DACM, LAc, a doctor of Chinese medicine, warns that anyone with a blood clotting disorder or who takes blood thinners should talk to their physician prior to partaking in any acupuncture treatment. “I always recommend someone speak to their doctor first and ask if they have any reason to advise them against trying cosmetic acupuncture,” she explains. 

Angela Chau Gray, LAc, an acupuncturist and cofounder of traditional Chinese medicine-inspired wellness brand, Yina, adds anyone looking for a quick fix for their skin-care concerns should also seek alternative options.

What are the possible benefits of cosmetic acupuncture?

Improved Collagen Production

Dallas, Texas-based board-certified dermatologist Rebecca Marcus, MD, explains that facial acupuncture, specifically, is hypothesized to stimulate lymphatic drainage, and, therefore, increase blood flow to the face. "This will support collagen production, which can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles," Dr. Marcus says.

Reduced Acne

Acne-prone skin types looking to supplement their over-the-counter balms and creams might want to consider facial acupuncture. While not scientifically proven to treat any skin condition, Dr. Marcus says there are anecdotal reports that it has helped bouts of acne. By encouraging lymphatic drainage, it may be aiding in the elimination of toxins that may contribute to breakouts.

"I would not recommend acupuncture as a monotherapy for acne," Dr. Marcus says, "but if a patient were interested in trying it as a complement to help augment results from other science-backed treatments, I certainly would not discourage them from doing so."

Reduced Inflammation and Jaw Tension

Applying needles directly to specific acupuncture points helps to improve blood circulation, says Dr. Kim, and this can stimulate an immune response that can also reduce inflammation. It can also "help to release trigger points in various muscles of the body," says Dr. Kim, like those found in the jaw.

What are the potential side effects of cosmetic acupuncture?

Dr. Liu says that temporary worsening of symptoms, soreness, bruising, muscle twitching, and minor bleeding at needle sites are possible short-term side effects. Remedying these side effects might include removal of the needles and/or applying direct pressure to bleeding areas (during the session), and, in the case of bruising, use of topical and oral arnica montana as prescribed by a physician or healthcare provider.

Dr. Kim emphasizes the importance of working with a certified practitioner who has earned at least a master's degree in the field. Seeking out someone who is licensed and has extensive experience can help keep the risk of experiencing any side effects from cosmetic acupuncture relatively low. 

How much does cosmetic acupuncture cost?

Depending on the practice, your location, length of treatment, and whether or not other treatments are incorporated into your sessions, cosmetic acupuncture can cost anywhere from $100 to $500 per session.

Is cosmetic acupuncture a natural alternative for Botox?

In a word, no. While facial acupuncture has been referred to as a "natural alternative" to Botox, they are not equivalent in the way they affect the skin. Cosmetic acupuncture doesn't inhibit muscle contraction in the way that Botox does, but rather aims to stimulate more blood flow to an area. "In theory, it works through potentially stimulating levels of collagen which would make the skin plump and [could] reduce some fine lines and wrinkles," according to New York City board-certified dermatologist Michelle Henry, MD.

That said, cosmetic acupuncture will take longer to show any results: "Most cosmetic acupuncture treatments are meant to be taken in a series, generally in a group of 10," says DiLibero. "The effects of acupuncture are cumulative, so follow-up appointments are recommended."